Adelaide, gateway to the Great Outback

Did you know that Adelaide is regarded as the gateway to the Great Outback? If you looked at the map of Australia you can understand why.

The Outback refers to the backyard of Australian cities beyond the bushland and refers to the continent’s centre. A vast, arid and harsh environment. Truly a massive expanse of land.

Its vastness

It is 5.6million square km and occupies 70% of the country. And Australian States have direct access to the Outback. The exceptions are the island State of Tasmania and Victoria whose northern border comes very close to it.

However only one State and city has been the historical gateway to the Outback. That is the State of South Australia and its capital city Adelaide. Proximity is the main factor.

Queensland and New South Wales are known entry points at a smaller scale. They cover the Eastern Part while Western Australia has a hold on in a bigger way as they cover all of the Western part of the Continent.

I have left out the Northern Territory and its capital city Darwin for a reason. They depend heavily on the Southern States for many things. This is despite Alice Springs and the Kathrine, major Outback towns being in the Northern Territory. Alice Springs by the way is in dead centre of the Outback and continent. Alice as it affectionally called is also the heartbeat of the Outback.

Adelaide and South Australia

In the 18th century all major expeditions to explore and traverse the centre unknown to the Western World began in Adelaide.

There were 6 expeditions in all starting from 1858. All from Adelaide. There was one other and it tracked from Melbourne to the Gulf of Carpentaria. The Burke and Willis expedition of 1860 was on the Eastern side and did not traverse the red centre of the Outback.

Opening up the Centre

The building of the Overland Telegraph Line followed in 1872, connecting Australia to the rest of World. From Darwin to Port Augusta, just north of Adelaide. It followed the same route the earlier expeditions laid down with their first maps and pathways. Along the now sealed main road we now call the Stuart Highway.

When more surveys and roads (more like tracks) had been built, it led to Adelaide. Read about the celebrated surveyor and road builder Len Beadell who carved out 6,000 kms in the Outback in the 1950s and 60s. He was born in New South Wales but did all his work from Adelaide. His roads penetrated the western and harshest part of the Outback including the 2 largest deserts.

When Australia looked into its national security, it was no surprise Adelaide was the staging point. The country’s nuclear, missile and weapons testing sites in the Outback were built and maintained via Adelaide. These include Woomera, Maralinga and Emu Fields. Len Beadell built the access road to Emu Fields. Do also read about Pine Gap next too Alice. Vital to us, our Allies and pivotal in balancing a delicate situation.

When it came to identify climate patterns and vegetation for agricultural opportunities Adelaide was again in the frame. Surveyors and explorers staged their entry thru Adelaide in the main. The Goydor line was one such result above which only grazing was found suitable.

Early pastoralists

As wave after wave of immigrants made their way to Australia, they first settled in the coastal cities. To support the growing population and seek out opportunities, early pioneers made inroads into the Outback. They had to pass the bush lands. They mainly sought open pastures to raise cattle and sheep.

These pioneering Outback pastoralists either came from Adelaide or ended up in Adelaide. New South Wales and Queensland pioneers did play a part but not to the scale that South Australians did. And one particular figure made his mark like no other.

Sidney Kidman was born in 1857 in Adelaide. He also took his last breath in 1935 at his home in present day Unley in Adelaide.

In between he carved out an unsurpassable legacy. He became the largest landowner in the World. He also built the largest cattle station in the World, Anna Creek.

And his playground was the Outback. His acquisitions went into 4 of the Australian States.

Anna Creek Station at its height was 7 times larger than the largest ranches in the US. It was larger than many countries including Belgium in Europe.

The Outback pastoral families relied on Adelaide and South Australia for their supplies. It was also their market for Cattle in the early years. Cattle drives stretching over a 1,000 kms were undertaken. Drovers used the now fabled stock routes ending at the abattoirs at the North end of Adelaide.

Family homes in Adelaide

Adelaide since the first forays into the Outback has been the second or even the first family home to those who lived and worked in the Outbacks. Their children in their early years are home schooled at their property in the Outback with the help of School of the Air. Prior to the internet, lessons plans and assignment are sent over the radio waves an hour each working day.

When children got older, they were sent to boarding and day schools in Adelaide. A second home in the city also allowed for frequent trips for shopping and respite from the harshness of the Outback.

Adelaide till today is home to boarding schools and universities for families that have cattle stations and farms in the Outback.

With greater mobility, frequent and cheaper flights other cities have also served the Outback in this respect.

Port Augusta junction

Trucking and flight routes now connect the interior with big cities, replacing camels and horses. Both not native to the country. Perth in the West and Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane in the East. It is however Adelaide that covers the centre all the way to Darwin.

Supplies that originate from Perth, Sydney or Melbourne run along highways just South of the Outback. Their meeting point is Port Augusta just North of Adelaide. It is a major junction and transfer point for rail and road into the interior.

Trailers laden with supplies are unhitched and re-hitched for the move towards the interior and Northwards. Port Augusta is also the Southern most limit that Road Trains can go.

The third trailer of the Road Train has to be unhitched to proceed further South. It no longer then called a Road Train, just a prime mover with 2 trailers.

There are specific terms for various truck- trailer configurations. There maybe another post on it as I am always amazed by the trucks criss-crossing Adelaide on Portrush Road. When I first moved there double Bs were rare but now a daily affair.

The Outback Tourism

Outback Tourism has always been part of South Australian Tourism industry. It is also big with states of Queensland and New South Wales with the Queensland authorities leading all 3 States in terms of focus and branding.

3 popular Outback tourism themes

The Ghan train runs between Adelaide and Darwin. There are the 3 and 4 day journeys with off-train trips from Alice and one or two other stops. Its caters for interstate and international tourists and gives an excellent view of the Outback with all the luxuries of a first class holiday. Fares begin at AUD3,000. If you are into iconic train journeys of the World this has to be in the bucket list.

Cattle stations and life in the Outback is another popular theme. Especially those on group and organised tours. Entry points are in the 3 states and I suspect this would be the biggest group. Trips range from a day to few days.

The hardened or hardcore traveller who not only take it as a challenge, they want to feel and see the real thing. Typically solo or as a family, they organise the entire trip spanning days to months. They can be on a touring cycle, motorbike, 4WD or a campervan. This lot will see and feel the worst and best of the Outback. Besides Alice, they are likely cover one or all of the following – William Creek, Birdsville and the Oodnadatta Trek. These are highly laudable achievements for land travellers.

In extreme cases, we are looking at those covering the Simpson Desert and the Gunbarrel Highway.

There are also special events that attract tourists from around the World. The best known are Cattle Drives on horseback but with good tented accommodation and food similar to safaris. Tourists on horse back help drive cattle along stock routes for 2 to 3 weeks and experience the life of a drover. What a wonderful and unique experience.

Back to Adelaide, the gateway

In 2020, World touring Korean cyclist Jin Jeong having covered 4 continents flew into Sydney from New Zealand. She cycled thru Melbourne to reach Adelaide on her bike. From Adelaide she entered the Great Outback. This is her blog.

I cite her as she is not the only one. World travellers like her seem to know where to begin. Adelaide is indeed the main gateway to the Great Outback and the Australia’s red centre. A magical place.