Rome on a Saturday is to capture what the city looks like in a day. Not the attractions nor the history, just the people, places, the vibe and life on an ordinary day. In essence, an ordinary day in Rome. Not the usual best iconic attractions of Rom nor the ideal Rome travel itinerary.
I found it interesting and revealing to see what locals do on a day. An approach I took later in my travels. I wanted to try and immerse myself to some extent.
Thursday and Friday was spent seeing the best of Rome just like any other tourist. We covered the Vatican, the Pantheon, Colosseum to the Trevi fountain and some minor sites. So Saturday was picked and the location was to start just outside the city centre. It’s November 2024 and weather wise, it was just right.
Neighbourhood of Trastevere
Rome’s neighbourhood of Trastevere was mentioned in a number of articles and appeared appealing. Clearly I was not the only one to take this approach. Others have done something similar and written about it. Trastevere lies on the opposite bank of the River Tiber from Rome centre. Its name in latin means beyond the Tiber.
The plan was to leave early in the morning. The nearest Taxi stand was 2 blocks away, along Corso Vittorio Emanuele II. We had done this walk twice in the last 2 days and familiar with it.
We needed a well known landmark in Trastevere to tell the driver and we picked the Basilica of Santa Maria. Churches tends to be central to many activities in a town and usually in a square. And this Church was no different.
An old neighbourhood, settled well before Christ. It first attracted Jewish and Syrian migrants and the building of Rome’s oldest synagogue. It also has two of Rome’s oldest churches one of which is Basilica Santa Maria. A place where the first official mass was said to held.
Basilica Santa Maria
I found Rome’s Taxi drivers to be purposeful and pleasant, and this gentleman was no different. We crossed the River Tiber and arrived within 5 minutes by the side of church. Paid the metered fare and walked to the front of the church. The door was slightly ajar but it was dark inside and began to walk away. One of the parishioners saw us, as she arrived and told us mass will begin soon. We followed her in.
We did read up about this church, having stumbled accidentally on another which revealed its rich insides. So made it a point to do some homework the night before to grasp the essentials.
It was early in the morning and there was little light but we could make out the artwork on the apse as well as the nave ceilings. It required full light to the bring out the richness and the radiant glow which I have seen in photographs on the Net.
Prominent are the gilded wooden ceiling panels, intricately carved and the apse vault. One thing to note is that the artwork appeared more ancient and different in style to other Catholic Churches in Rome. After all it was one of the oldest churches. However, it should be noted that this church had seen significant restoration and extensions over centuries. There were about 6 people attending mass and we left shortly after.
Time for a neighbourhood walk
The streets are narrow and somewhat meandering and very much a maze. Much of the residences were low rise apartment blocks. The place came across as a homely neighbourhood that would be attractive to the liberal and artistic lot. Pretty much laid back. As the sun began to rise, the demographics came across as mixed.
We looked into two cafes (called bars) and the fare was mainly pastries, bread and coffee. Bread varieties were extensive, reflection of Western Europe. The range of pastries was wide and inviting.
Did not see even one cooked breakfast meal. The residents were dressed well, no one in gym outfits or sportwear or even sporting flip flops. There was a sense of decorum. An air of civility without a shade of opulence or class order. We did not stand out and even felt included. A resident more than a visitor. It was a nice feeling. My holding the camera did not raise an eyebrow.
We came across a small square with makeshift stalls selling fresh produce. A morning market. It appeared that we were still early at 9am as there was hardly a soul, just the stallholders trimming the vegetables readying for display and sale.
We walked around more and saw an odd villa or two among the apartment blocks. They looked opulent. Came across one that was opened to visitors for a fee, no longer a residence, more a museum of artwork and paintings.
Graffiti
One thing you could not miss and it was everywhere. Graffiti. Not here and there, nor in dribs and drabs. It was full on. After an hour, we were used to it. It became part of the landscape and no longer prominent.
Clearly the residents had given up. It was on doors, windows and walls. No facade was spared. There were shopfronts that was covered in graffiti. Few shops did not have them and must have taken the approach of cleaning it as soon as it appeared.
These were no murals or artwork. It was something that I did not come across in Rome Centre. Not even in their dark alleyways. The only time I seen graffiti of this scale was in Prague shortly after Soviet Bloc was dismantled. You could explain that to an expression of freedom marking the end of subjugation.
Despite the graffiti, the neighbourhood was clean and orderly. Did not see payment side litter like in New York or Paris.
I have no doubt that the apartments would be readily snapped up for rent or sale in view of the welcoming atmosphere and quaint layout and narrow streets.
I understood there is a sizeable student population due to the presence of US and Canadian tertiary off-site institutions but clearly not part of the morning crowd on a Saturday.
San Calisto Bar, a pleasant surprise
We decided to head back to our original staring point. Just to get our bearings and look around more.
San Calisto Bar across the street faces the side of the basilica. We noticed it when we were dropped off by the taxi. It looked very ordinary and somewhat rundown. The second time around, there were more customers and the place looked upbeat. We decided to have our coffee break and maybe a snack.
Got a table that had seen better days in the courtyard. Worked out the ordering dynamics and headed to the cashier to pay for our coffee. Got the receipt, turned around and told the barista our order and got our cappuccinos. It was quick, efficient and the place was getting busy.
Stanley Tucci‘s “Searching for Italy”
It was nice day and while sipping away, I sensed something amiss. The 2 other bars that we visited earlier had all locals, but this had a mix of tourists and locals. And it was well patronised. Noticed a taxi driver parking his taxi and coming into the bar for his break.
We actually spent more time than expected as we felt really comfortable and ended up people watching. There were couples with prams, young adults, middle aged and elderly folks both local and tourist. For some reason they all seem to know this bar.
Later that night while surfing the net, I realised that it was one of the most famous bars. Noted for its cheap and well liked beverages, snacks and alcohol. It turns into a beer house later in the evening, going all the way to 2am. Apparently well-known and well-liked fixture and landmark. It made it into Stanley Tucci’s must-visit places in his well-received documentary. That explained the tourists. Wow! And I had been there by fluke.
Heading back across the bridge
We decided to walk back to Rome centre, crossed the River Tiber, came across buskers doing their thing on the bridge. We began making our way thru popular tourist areas in a leisurely manner back to the hotel. Continuing to observe life in keeping with our plan.
One obvious thing we noticed from day one on arrival was the presence of the Police officers and the Carabinieri. Not at all intimidating but they were everywhere. On foot patrols, police cars of all sizes and even in sentry boxes. At tourist locations, dark lanes and piazzas.
After crossing the bridge and further down the road, we saw two groups next to each and there were briefings going on. One group were uniformed carabinieri and the second were civilians. I realised the second group were plainclothes detectives as the lady had a pair of handcuffs in her back pocket, its outline was clear. Must be the hardest working law enforcement outfit in any city I have been to.
Impressions of Rome’s daily life
We admired Rome taxi drivers, their clean taxis, the affordable fares, the Police forces, the orderly traffic though congested and narrow in places. There was no standard sizes for taxi or Police vehicles but a variety and no matter the size, they looked professional.
We liked Trastevere and accepted the extensive graffiti for reason we could not explain. Probably because the place looked very homely, rustic and with cobblestones.
People were dressed decently and carried themselves well. We admired their youths who came out later in the day in groups, dressed well and behaved well. A lesson for London I thought.
Piazzas and fountains big and small were all over Rome and somehow evenly placed.
We liked the way they had their meals. Light lunch with salad, cold cuts with a basket of bread. Dinner outside seemed to be a romantic event with Italian wine and food prepared with little meat. It did explain their slender and slim build.
Most of all we envied their never ending list of ancients treasures from beautiful paintings, frescos, sculptures as well as their attempt to preserve much of Rome. What a lucky country and city.