Adelaide’s East End is interesting and different. To me it’s unfinished, with plenty of opportunities. Its requires a kick start of some sort to realise its full potential.
I suppose a day will come when this puzzle is solved and then we will have another icon and treasure for the state and city. .
More than 20 years ago when I first arrived in Adelaide I did realise that the East End was and is unique. It stood out clearly. It was much quieter yet had the vibe of being exciting and welcoming. Even today it speaks to food, culture, fashion, style and entertainment. Couture and epicurean. Bohemian as well as cosmopolitan.
East End is a mix of food and retail businesses but not the usual mix. Vintage boutiques, galleries, iconic pubs and chic bars.
I also had the impression that the tenants picked the location and wanted to remain there as some sort of identity. Not all commercial and businesslike. It showed a side of humanity.
Despite the low footfall, they were prepared to wait. Maybe a desire to be away from the rest of Adelaide CBD and normalcy.
The tenants
For some reason the East End comes across as sparsely tenanted. The moment you cut cross Frome Street, heading East along Rundle Street there is a drop in activity and people. But the numbers say something else.
There are 7 full fledge pubs including the iconic Stag, Crown & Anchor, the Exeter and the Austral. Then comes 16 chic bars.
Many exciting and tempting menu items on offer. There is a visceral need to patronise each of these chic bars. A bucket list for a period of time as they are all different and appealing.
Lets not forget the 11 fine dining establishments from African, Argentinian to Japanese. Together with 21 casual eateries from long standing and well respected Amalfi to Lemongrass. Thai, Vietnamese, Italian, Indian, Greek, Creole Cajun to noodles.
31 fashion boutiques including some legends such as Miss Gladys Sym Choon. The vast majority have no other branches or outlets. Fiercely independent I suppose.
No different to other places and businesses, there is also tenant turnover due to various reasons.
History
Up till the late 1980s, the East End was the original home of Adelaide’s fruit and vegetable wholesale market. From the 1860s and over 120 years it served the growing city of Adelaide. In 1988 it to moved North to more spacious Pooraka.
Officially called the “Adelaide Fruit and Produce Exchange”. Those words are still on the old wall maintained facade along East Terrace facing Rymill Park.
When the market moved , developers took interest in the location and prestige apartments were built. The planning for the residential part worked well. It is now a mix of residential with existing retail and food outlets.
To me it was one of the few occasions where urbanisation worked well to retain that sense of old World charm and its rustic ambience. The front-runner to Adelaide’s inner city living that is now a trend.
Smallness does work
One of the attractions of the East End is the small size of shops, cafes and other establishment. Quaintness comes to mind. Even the entrance to Palace Nova East End Cinema is somewhat hidden. But well designed and fits snugly with neighbouring tenants.
There are no large malls, supermarkets, department stores or anything that comes close to a chain store. It remains less commercial, more independent, carefree and casual.
The 2 exceptions are Target and Hungry Jacks which are on the western fringe end, facing Rundle Mall. Not at the heart of East End.
It’s the kind of place that makes you to think carefully what to wear to be seen there. Not Gucci or anything high end and luxurious. Just well coordinated, cool and very individual. A well matched outfit from a charity store is also fine.
Unique operating rhythm
There is an operating rhythm that is unique to the East End. I doubt there is any other city zone in Australia that has this.
Business and footfalls for the East End come in patches, big patches. And these patches are event driven.
East Terrace which is the boundary street on the Eastern End faces Rymill Park. Both Rymill, neighbouring Victoria Park and the surrounding roads are venues for major events. The East End comes alive at these events. Not ordinary events but big events.
Remember South Australia is known as the Festival State. And East End gets the lion’s share due to its proximity to the Eastern parklands.
Add its ambience, layout and retail mix and numerous eateries, East End becomes a magnet. I know of interstate and overseas visitors who attend these events, patronise the East End and think that the locals are so lucky to have it.
Those who take part at these events are known to do recurring yearly bookings of accommodation and restaurant group bookings. Similar to recurring bookings to popular ski resorts and chalets in the Snowy Mountains.
They do not want to miss out during peak season. Motor racing events especially where there is a large support crew of mechanics and engineers. Another lot are those involved in the Fringe Festival and they need to set up stage and props.
Crowds throng to these venues packing the streets and pavements. Not creating chaos or disruptions but contributing to an atmosphere of fun and inclusiveness.
Residents take on the vibe and add to the atmosphere by organising block and street parties.
The top 3 major events are ;
- The 5 star international Horse triathlon, one of six staged round the World.
- Adelaide Fringe Festival which I have covered in this post
- Adelaide 500 V8 annual car race on a street circuit, part of the Australian tour
There are other events as well.
What does the future hold?
I have seen it evolve over 2 decades and it has been slow. I am aware of the Maras family and the part they played and continue to play to get this right. Also aware of Theo Maras’ help in improving Rundle Mall and Adelaide Central Market precinct.
I also wondered if this is indeed the desired end state for the East End. Long periods of laid back quietness and then the large event driven adrenalin rush. The long periods allowed for respite and recovery.
I distinctly recall a comment that appeared on the minutes of a ratepayers meeting some years back. The meeting was on increased rates to support promotional activities. One ratepayer said that the big events were sufficient and nothing else needed to be done.
The riddle that remains – students
University of Adelaide is across the road from the East End, a short walk away. I see their students in numbers at Rundle Mall and far away at Adelaide Central Market and numerous eateries and shops in the city. But not at the East End.
In the same vein, could not find a single establishment that targets undergraduates and more matured post graduate students. Maybe the Belgian Cafe when it first opened.
And it is the is younger generation that goes for the offbeat , chic and bohemian look and feel. A riddle indeed.
The thing to do now
Plan ahead to visit East End when the big events come around. Pick the event that appeals to you. These run a few days with weekends being the main draw. Do a bit of research on where to drink and dine. Check out Google reviews to find if food and service are up to scratch in the various places and where parties are held.
There is the Pullman, the Majestic, the Ibis and the Crown Plaza to accomodate out of town, interstate and international visitors. There are many others hotels and motels that fits one’s budget nearby.
Time spent in the East End during big events is memorable. So do plan for it.